Who Is Fashion Week for Anymore? 13 Insiders Share Their Stories
After last year’s fiasco of publicist information being traded on TikTok, many brands in New York are slowly catching up to how other cities are handling show requests.
Fashion writer Ty Gaskins credits the important back-end work to PR agencies like Lede, Karla Otto, KCD, and Lucien Pages. “They’re a huge driving force behind the scenes of these brands,” he says.
Writers and editors have repeatedly noted how vital a PR agency is to the run of a show. Editors applauded Gia Kuan for her press line, which might seem minor but was necessary, as the competing line was packed and the media line was empty. Easy entrance for editors makes a huge difference.
“This season made it clear that Lindsey Media has fashion week down to a science,” Smith says. “The entire team is a delight. I’m also consistently blown away by Gia Kuan’s shows.”
Lindsey Solomon of Lindsey Media notes that a well-run fashion event comes down to managing expectations and ensuring people are aware of their role. No matter how small the role, everyone plays a part in producing the monster. “I could go on and on about the value but also the responsibility that comes with having volunteers because, ultimately, I can’t micromanage everyone,” Solomon says. “They need to know their role and what protocol and how to solve problems on the spot. It’s my team’s job to think of every possible scenario and have a solution — have an intern sit in a VIP seat until they show up, text the editor who’s running late for an ETA, and make sure check-in is efficient.”
Smith says there is definitely a vibe shift happening with New York Fashion Week, specifically, but not in the way alarmists are casting it. “If anything, NYFW is in a transitional period. Look closely, the vibe shift is just a new vanguard of local designers finding their footing. Wiederhoeft, Dauphinette, Sandy Liang, Eckhaus Latta, Area, Bad Binch TongTong, Collina Strada, and Luar all brought spectacle and substance in their own way this season,” he points out.
“I’d also argue that Tory Burch, Christian Siriano, and Proenza Schouler, among others, now deserve the helm of legacy labels that know how to put on a great show,” Smith adds. “The point is, we’re in the throes of change both on the designer and attendee sides, but New York’s unique spark, its essence, won’t change. Send in the influencers, shrink the schedule, and bring on the TikToks — NYFW will be just fine. The sublime exists everywhere you look.”
Complaining can be cathartic. Sharing the exasperation is part of the game. While editors continue to voice their concerns, we’re all still along for the turbulent ride. “I was personally so excited about attending NYFW,” Balagam says. “But everyone around me was like, ‘It sucks compared to how it used to be.’ Everyone seems to be ‘done with it,’ yet at the same time, they’re waiting in line for hours to get in, which is the essence of the city in many ways.”
